Crossing the Corinth Canal May 9, 2011

Crossing the Corinth Canal May 9, 2011

Our friends Matt and Inga joined up with us at Poros on the 6th. After some sightseeing on the island, we were ready to continue with our trip. The next major point of interest was Corinth Canal. Providing a short cut between the Korinthiakos and the Saronic gulfs, the canal stretches 4 miles long and 60 ft wide, and was built in 1883. Cutting a narrow slice through vertical limestone cliffs, it is one of the most impressive canals in the world. On a per mile basis it is also one of the most expensive canals to cross.






Docking at the Canal entrance. A freighter went by.






A group picture. The lady on the left, Brenda, is from the boat docking next to us.

Hydra – one of the Saronic islands May 5, 2011

The 'Flying Dolpin' goes at about 25 knots...somewhat faster than our sailboat.

Hydra has no private vehicles. Donkeys are it.

Cats everywhere!

Hydra harbor

This is spring time in Greece. Lovely flowers!

Donkeys are the work 'horse', hauling constrution material here.

Hydra – one of the Saronic islands May 5, 2011
According to one of the guidebooks, if you can see only one Saronic island, let it be Hydra. So of course, we MUST go. We could sail there on our boat, but it’s a small harbor and we were concerned that it may be full. We boarded a hydro-foil ferry instead, the Flying Dolphin XVIII, and 30 minutes later, we’re at Hydra. The small harbor, in crescent shape with two ends flanked by stout cannons, was crowded with wooden trawlers, passenger ships, water taxis and sailing yachts. Similar to Poros, first glimpse of the island was the white homes with orange clay roofs, and waterfront lined with restaurants, cafes, jewelry, boutiques and souvenir shops. What set Hydra apart from other islands is that there are no cars at all on the island. You either walk or commission a donkey ’taxi’ to see anything. So we walked. Once away from the dock, the narrow back alleys was eerily quiet. We walked through some long and hilly ways, saw some three-story high mansions, with the Saronic Golf in full view.

Hydra was picturesque, but after seeing Simi, Thira, Poros ….. not sure the island was all that ‘impossibly picturesque’. The town at one point was home and retreat of many Greek artists. We therefore came with high expectations, and we must have been one of the few unfortunate ones that did not encounter any of the creative genius at work. There were no art galleries, as described, in the back streets --- perhaps it’s not tourist season yet?!

Beautiful town of Poros May 3, 2011

The waterway approach to Poros



Beautiful town of Poros May 3, 2011
Considered as one of the most beautiful areas in Greece, Poros certainly lives up to its reputation. The town is situated on a small volcanic peninsula, on the shores of the mountainous Peloponnese. There are no shortages of well-protected anchorages in this stunning emerald-green body of water.

Poros is also known as a haven for yachties, and boats with international flags (mainly charter boats) can be seen tied up along the waterfront. Other than the regulars (GER, UK, FR, NTH), there are also sailors from Russia, Czech, Austria, Croatia, Lithuania, Chad …. very international indeed.



Eliza happily test riding the buggy


- A wonderful view from driving around the island


To explore the island, we rented a 4-wheel buggy and visited the Temple of Poseidon, saw the ruins left by Demosthenes, and the stunning view of the Saronic Gulf. Putt putt down the scenic coastline, passed the Askeli beach and we came upon the Monastery of Zoodochos Pigis, which was used as early as 200 C.E. Going along NW of the coastline, there were numerous coves and bays and the one that impressed us the most was the Russian Bay. A secluded bay that would fit several yachts, with crystal-clear emerald green water, bordered by a small sandy beach, it’s postcard-perfect. We ended our day of expedition with coffee and ice cream.




A picture-perfect anchorage called Russian Bay

Good Sailing

Anchorage at Kithnos

Good Sailing May 1, 2011

Taking advantage of an unusual South-East wind, we are sailing from Sifnos to Kithnos, a distance of about 40 nautical miles to the north. The wind started out directly behind us, at 15 knots. We flew the genoa only on the dead run. The waves started to build by mid morning, and we were happily surfing at over 7 knots, although this sailing direction requires a lot of attention at the helm. I experimented with the auto-pilot to see how it handles. Occasionally a wave pushes the stern off; the auto pilot over-corrects, and the boat goes too much into the leeward side, causing the genoa to flop around. And then the boat eventually gets back to the right direction, and the sail fills, with a huge ‘boom’. That’s not good. I set the course to 10 degree off, and everything worked a lot better. I really should set the whisker pole, which in the case of this boat is the spinnaker pole; but I am too leery to go to the foredeck to man-handle the huge pole in this pitching sea, so…those are the compromises.

By mid afternoon the wind has veered to a beam reach, and we are simply enjoying the ride, the boat sailing at 7 to 8 knots in 15 knots of wind. And then the late-afternoon fresh breeze arrives, gusts of 25, the boat complaints of getting overpowered and heads up into wind, so we reef in the genoa, ease the main, and arrive at our anchorage by 4:00PM. We have sailed the entire 40 miles, which is highly unusual. We drop anchor in a deserted bay called Ormos Apokriosis. The bay is sheltered on three sides by rocky cliffs, ringed by a small strip of sandy beach, a tavern, a chapel, and some shuttered houses overlooking the bay. A light breeze still comes in from the sea, but inside the bay the water is calm, except for the sound of the constant surfs rolling over the beach.

Misfortune at Thira (Santorini)

The dramatic scenery at Santorini. In the foreground is the volcanic crater.

Misfortune at Thira (Santorini) April 27, 2011
We ran aground. We were in the middle of the harbor entrance to the marina at Santorini, the only marina on this island that has a good harbor. Chart indicates a depth of 3 meters; our boat draws a bit more than 2 meters. But as we turned into the harbor, there was this dreadful sound of the bottom touching ground, and we came to a dead stop.
Let us explain how it all began ……

After 3 days sitting out at Maltezana, we were anxious to roam around. Our original plan was to go into Vlikadha, SE of Thira, a marina highly recommended in the pilot guidebook, and properly checked into Greece by taking a bus to port Fira. Thira, the island, more famously known as Santorini, is a popular tourist stop due to its spectacular volcano formation. But the port had neglected to clear the silt built up at the entrance, and the depth was a meter less than the chart. We ran aground, in the middle of the channel inside the harbor! Fortunately it’s only mud on the bottom, and we wiggled free on reverse. The harbor attendant waved us to try again closer to the starboard side of the entrance, where the chart indicates submerged rocks. But we tried anyway…and got stuck again. Thoroughly discouraged now, we got out of the harbor and went to look for other potential anchorages. But this side of the island is basically a huge crater, with lava rock and sheer cliffs all around. The afternoon wind was also beginning to pick up, funneling through the cliffs. Since it’s already 4:30pm, we went to check out Skala Thira, which based on the pilot guidebook is not a desirable port to dock. It was so true, especially when gust’s blowing at 30 knots, pushing swells into the harbour. In the entire harbour, there’s one 70’ power yacht and one lone sailboat, desperately tried to tie a long line to the drum/buoy. 3 Rivers said adios to Skala Thira. Docking in a deep crater was just not a good idea. So long Santorini ….. we will come back.

Departing Santorini. Rough seas. Ferry passing us.

Our slip at Ios



A freighter needs our space...no competition here.

Easter at Astipalaia April 25, 2011

Finally, a nice, calm day


Easter at Astipalaia April 25, 2011
We are the lone boat at this anchorage at the island of Astipalaia for a third fourth day now, still waiting for the wind to calm down. This little fishing/resort hamlet called Maltezana is very quiet as the tourist season has not started yet. We are sheltered from waves on all directions, but not sheltered from the wind, which rolls over the hills surrounding the small harbor and blasts us at full force, day and night at 25 knots. There have been gale and near-gale warnings for the Aegean every week for the last 4 weeks. It’s all white caps even within the small bay. The masts moan, and the bimini shakes under every gust. The boat swings around in and out of the wind, straining the anchor. The halyards are secured but some lines always manage to slap against something and make a rhythmic noise. Thankfully the anchor, set with an all-chain scope of 8:1, is solidly holding. Spring is arriving late in the Aegean and it’s unseasonably cold, about 15C during the day. However the scenery is beautiful. It’s always sunny, the water clear and emerald green, distant mountains brown with patches of green, dotted by neat white-washed vacation villas and houses. A great way to make use of the anchor time is read, read, and read if you are Eliza. If you are restless like Ben, you varnish, fine-tuning the radio system and re-set the sails. Only if we don’t have a schedule; Matt & Inga, we’re trying …..
By late afternoon, the wind has calmed down somewhat as there are more activities happening; a small plane has landed at the nearby airport, a small ketch puttering around the islands, small fishing boats coming out from the harbour and we have a new neighbour, a French boat called Tempo Rubato. With certainty, tomorrow we can make our run to Thira (Santorini).

From Tilos to Astipalaia April 22, 2011

A tough day at the office...





Choppy even within the protected bay





Sunset after the storm

From Tilos to Astipalaia April 22, 2011
We continue our Greek Island hopping and are now sailing from Tilos to Astipalaia, a distance of about 60 nautical miles. This is our longest run yet through the open Aegean Sea. Typically we’ve picked anchorages that are within half day’s sail, to allow time for less wind or tacking. But now we’ve finally run out of the short hops and its time to head to sea for a longer voyage. We try to time the right weather window, but this is spring gales season and it is next to be impossible to time it perfectly, or you end up waiting for a long time. The prevailing wind is north west, with gale warnings at mid-Aegean about 5 days out of 7. Today is no exception, but at least the wind is slightly to the north, forecasted at 15 knots, and yesterday it was relatively calm so the sea has not built up yet.